Benfica’s gleaming new Stadium of Light (Avenida General Norton de Matos; +351 218 627 000) and Sporting’s Jose Alvalade (Rua Fernando da Fonseca) are in the north of the city. Both were entirely rebuilt for Euro 2004, but retained the name of the 1950s arena they replaced. The Benfica remodelling, Project Luz, was the responsibility of Damon Lavelle and his HKO Sport team of architects, who provided Sydney with its Olympic stadium. Lavelle remained true to the concept of the original Luz, keeping its red arches, while building around it a complex of shops, restaurants and a health club. Eusebio’s statue remains.
The nearest metro station is Colegio Militar/Luz on the blue line. There are any number of options for a pre-match drink and snack in the four-tiered arena. The capacity is 65,000. Tickets are sold at 25 offices around the ground up to two weeks in advance. You can also buy them by phoning: +351 707 200 100.
The 50,000-capacity Alvalade is at Campo Grande on the yellow and green metro lines. The new ground has a multiplex cinema and health club, as well as a number of places to eat and drink. You can order tickets for a seat in either of the touchline stands (Bancada A or B) from the club’s website (www.sporting.pt) for around €25 (£17). You can pick them up at the ground from three days to two hours before kick-off.
Benfica’s ground is the de facto national stadium since Lisbon’s Estadio Nacional has only basic facilities. It is also harder to get to – it is located deep in the woods of Caixas, a 30-minute tram ride from the city centre followed by a 15-minute walk. The stadium, where Celtic won the European Cup in 1967, is used for
Portuguese Cup Finals.
You can also reach it from Belem, the location of Lisbon’s other top division club, Belenenses. They play at the modest Estadio Restelo, next to Belem station. Regular suburban trains run there from the Cais do Sodre station in the city centre, a journey of 10 minutes.