Arrival & transport
San Pablo airport is seven miles east of the city. Buses to town run every 30-60 minutes via Santa Justa train station (journey time 25 minutes). City centre buses are run by the TUSSAM company. A single ticket is ¤1.10 (80p), a bonobus ticket of 10 ¤5 or ¤6 (£3.70 or £4.50). A day pass is ¤3.25 (£2.40), a three-day ¤7.50 (£5.50).
Hotels
The Hotel Alfonso XIII (pictured top) (2 c/San Fernando; +34 954 917 000; ¤330-500/£250-380) is the best in town, a beautiful five-star built by the King for the 1929 Expo. Los Seises (6 c/Segovia; +34 954 229 495; ¤150-200/£115-150) is great value considering it’s an ornate four-star with a roof-top pool. The Murillo (9 c/Lope de Rueda; +34 954 216 095 ¤75-100/£57-75) is a comfortable, well-located two-star with an old-fashioned feel. For hotel information visit the main tourist office, 21 Avenida de la Constitucion (+34 954 221 404), or the national tourist office.
Tourist hotels abound in Sultanahmet, some providing substantial breakfasts on rooftop terraces. One such is the Terrace Guesthouse (Kutlugun Sok 39; +90 212 638 9733; £35).
Eating & drinking
The narrow streets of the Santa Cruz and Triana districts are lined with tapas bars with pretty, tiled interiors. Many do a cheap, fixed-price menu del dia – the cheapest around the university quarter. Egana Oriza (41 c/San Fernando; +34 954 227 211) is the most talked-about restaurant in town, a superb Basque eaterie with a well-heeled clientele. La Albahaca (12 Plaza Santa Cruz) is a mid-priced restaurant in a converted palace on a picturesque square. The Casa Morales (11 c/Garcia de Vinuesa), one of the city’s oldest bars, offers great local wines.
Daytime entertainment
The key sights are all within an easy walk. The construction of the 15th century cathedral coincided with the Age of Discovery and contains the tomb of Christopher Columbus. La Giralda, attached to the cathedral and the icon of Seville, is the minaret of the mosque that stood on the site. Opposite is the Alcazar, a 14th century palace in which Ferdinand and Isabella planned the conquest of the Americas. The Museo de Bellas Artes (9 Plaza del Museo; www.juntadeandalucia.es/cultura) has a superb Spanish art collection.
After dark
For flamenco, La Carboneria (18 c/Levies) is classic but informal (open until 3am daily). The Cafe del Mar (83 c/Jesus del Gran Poder) offers trendy DJ sounds.